Yellowknife, NWT - Winter Guide
I recently took a trip to Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada also known as the "Aurora Capital of the World." Ever since I moved to Canada, exploring the NWT has been on top of my bucket list, and finally, I had the chance to make it happen. If you're thinking about heading to Yellowknife and want some advice on catching the Northern Lights, finding a great place to stay, good spots to eat, or fun things to do in the area, I've got you covered. In this blog I wanted to share all my tips and recommendations to make your Yellowknife adventure unforgettable!
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Where is Yellowknife located?
Situated on the Northern shore of Great Slave Lake, Yellowknife is the capital of the Northwest Territories and the largest city in the NWT, Canada. The city is located on Chief Drygeese Territory in the Akaitcho region, the traditional territory of the Yellowknives Dene First Nation. Yellowknife gets its name from the copper tools historically made and traded by the local Dene. The most common Dene name for Yellowknife is “Somba K’e,” which translates to “Where the money is.” Honestly “Yellowknife” is a pretty fitting title for a town with a gold-mining history. Yellowknife was officially founded in 1934, when the area today called Old Town was little more than a few cabins and a rough-and-tumble mining camp.
How to get to Yellowknife?
Despite its remote location, getting there was surprisingly easy. There are number of options for travelling into Yellowknife both from Southern Canada as well as communities throughout the Northwest Territories, Nunavut and Yukon.
By Air: Airlines including WestJet and Air Canada fly into Yellowknife from Edmonton and Calgary regularly. There are also direct flights from Whitehorse and Ottawa through Air North. Canadian North offers direct service from many communities throughout NWT and Nunavut, including Norman Wells, Fort Simpson, Kugluktuk, Hay River, Rankin Inlet, as well as Edmonton. Other airlines that offer service into and out of Yellowknife include, Northwestern Air Lease, Buffalo Airways, North-Wright Airways and Air Tindi. We booked our tickets well ahead of time, taking advantage of West Jet's seat sale. By booking our flights in advance, we were able to get an incredible deal, paying as little as $99 per person for a round-trip from Calgary, Alberta.
By Land: It is possible to drive to Yellowknife. From Edmonton, it's a 19 hour journey north along the Frontier Trail, MacKenzie Highway and Yellowknife Highway through 1500 kilometers of forest and wilderness, where you may spot bears, bison and other wildlife. For up-to-date information on road conditions, visit GNWT Transportation.
Where to stay in Yellowknife?
Although, there are number of hotels in Yellowknife, we opted to stay at a Bed & Breakfast and we were glad we did. Mabuhay Lakeside Manor - is a cozy retreat located right on the shore of Great Slave Lake, next to Dettah Ice Road, with stunning views and complimentary home-cooked breakfast. As soon as we were greeted at the door we felt at home. Delilah, the owner, is a wonderful and kindhearted soul that treated us like friends. The bed was very comfy, and the location was very convenient. If you stay here and if you're lucky, you might even be able to see the Northern Lights from the backyard or even right from your window! If I ever need to go back to Yellowknife, I'd love stay at her house again.
What to do in Yellowknife in the Winter?
witness the Northern Lights
One of the main reasons for visiting Yellowknife in the winter for us was of course was the chance to witness the breathtaking Aurora Borealis. Situated perfectly underneath the auroral oval (the area with the highest Northern Lights activity), Yellowknife stands out as one of the premier destinations in Canada and worldwide, for experiencing this natural wonder. Thanks to long clear winter nights, Yellowknife offers a very high chance of catching a glimpse of the Aurora if you spend a couple of days in the city. During our visit, unfortunately we had some cloudy weather, likely due to warmer temperatures. However, we did get lucky and managed to witness the lights breaking through the clouds on one of the four nights. Even if you encounter cloudy conditions, don't lose hope; the clouds in this region tend to move rapidly, sometimes offering opportunities for clear views of the Aurora thoughtut the night.
When to see The Northern Lights in Yellowknife?
With the long and clear winter nights, mid-November to the beginning of April tend to be the best times of the year to visit Yellowknife for a good Aurora viewing. Late summer to early autumn often also offers a good chance of seeing the lights. For the day to day forecast, visit Astronomy North's website, and if you are going for a walk around town, be sure to keep an eye out for Northern Lighthouses. These tiny lighthouses, located throughout the city, alert visitors and residents when active aurora is in the evening forecast. Hunting for Northern lights in Yellowknife is so popular that they have a live camera feed set up for monitoring it.
Other helpful Aurora Resources are: Aurora Forecast & Alerts Mobile App (download on the App Store), (get it on Google Play) and WeatherCan to check for weather and cloud coverage (download on the App Store), (get it on Google Play). Both apps are available for free.
There are several certified Licenced Tourism’s Operators in Yellowknife that provide Aurora tours. Although it is possible to spot the Aurora right in town, for example on the Dettah Ice Road, the view is much better from outside the city where light pollution will not interfere. You can also do what we did, which is to rent a car in Yellowknife and head out for a self-guided Northern Lights Tour. Below is a map of locations where you can safely pull over to admire the Aurora. We booked our rental car through Expedia, which was very convenient for getting around town as well.
You can also chose to treat yourself to a full-service Aurora tour at a specific location like the one offered by the iconic Aurora Village. A bus will pick you up from your hotel or B&B and take you out of town and up the Ingraham Trail, only a 20-minute drive but far from the city lights. Here, you’ll find cozy teepees to warm you while you wait for the Northern Lights to put on a show. The tours start from $135 per person.
TIPS FOR PHOTOGRAPHING THE NORTHERN LIGHTS:
Avoid light pollution. If you can head out of town.
Use a tripod and a timer. Whether using a smartphone or a professional camera, a tripod is a must. You may also use a cable release or set a two second timer delay on your phone/camera, this gives you some time to get your hands away from the camera to avoid any shakes in the photo.
Choose a wide-angle lens like 16-35mm. If taking pictures on your phone use 0.5.
Know your settings: Take some time to get familiar with your camera's settings, and how to use it in the dark, so you won't be trying to figure all that out in the cold and while the Lights are out.
Adjust your focus by using a star in the night sky as a marker.
For bright and active aurora, try a shutter speed of 5-10 seconds; for slow-moving aurora, 12-20 seconds; for faint aurora, take the shutter speed to 20-25 seconds.
Experiment with ISO. The higher the ISO, the more light you capture, but the photos also get grainier with a higher ISO. Start at 1600 (increase if it’s very dark) and then adjust until you get the right exposure.
Set your aperture (f-stop) to f2.8 or widest possible, depending on the lens you are using, to let in enough light to capture the aurora.
Select your white balance as “daylight” so that the light in your photos isn’t too yellow or blue.
If using your phone. Don’t Use Flash: Models like the iPhone 11 Pro and newer have a Night mode. Use it to adjust your exposure time (around 10-15 seconds) to capture the aurora.
Wear touchscreen-friendly gloves that will allow you to use your camera's controls without having to take them off. The cold here is no joke and even if you take your gloves off momentarily you are at a high risk of frostbite. Keep extra camera batteries and your phone in pockets next to your skin and you can also throw a hand warmer in the pocket with them. The cold is will drain your camera and phone batteries very quickly.
Enjoy the moment! Be sure to put your camera aside, look around and savour the moment. Sometimes they happen so fast if you blink you might miss them.
DRIVE the dettah ice road
Don't miss the opportunity to experience the Dettah Ice Road if you’re Yellowknife during the winter months. Stretching across Yellowknife Bay on the Great Slave Lake, this frozen “seasonal” road offers a unique journey from late November to mid-April. Beginning at Yellowknife off School Draw Road and winding its way to the charming community of Dettah, the ice road spans 6.4 km, providing panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Driving the Dettah Ice Road was a very cool experience, with the ice reaching a thickness of one meter (42 inches), capable of supporting the weight of a fully loaded truck. Since the road is extremely wide, pulling onto the shoulder to snap photos and investigate bald patches of ice is easy. While the ice may appear solid, it's essential to exercise caution, especially during the "shoulder seasons" of breakup and freeze-up. Over the past 20 years, it typically opens around December 24th and closes by April 16th.
Visit a Museum
Yellowknife is home to a rich Indigenous heritage, with the Dene people playing a significant role in the region's history and culture. The Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre showcases exhibits on Indigenous art, history, and culture, providing valuable insights into the life of the Dene people and their deep connection to the land. The museum is free of charge and features a cafe and occasional events. It’s definitely worth stopping by; plan for two to three hours if you want to see everything. We spent hours wandering around and coud’ve stayed longer as there was so much to see.
DogSledding:
If there's one outdoor sport that's associated with Canada's North, it's dogsledding. Before there were planes, cars and snowmobiles, everyone used dog teams to get around. We booked a tour with - Tugáh Norther Experiences an Indigenous, family owned business and it was definitely the highlight of our trip.
You start off in the dog kennel, surrounded by these incredible Husky sled dogs. You get some time to meet them and learn their names and about each of their unique personalities. They're just so sweet. Once you're introduced to the team, you hop onto this cushy toboggan with a total pro musher named Wynter. Seriously, Wynter is so sweet, her and her brother River know everything about these dogs and the terrain. Then, it's time for the ride – we're talking peacefully gliding along the frozen shores of Kam Lake. It's like being in a winter wonderland painting, but real life. After all that excitement, we headed to this cozy log cabin to warm. Think cozy wood stove, Indigenous artifacts, and the most delicious freshly pan-fried bannock and hot drinks. It's like stepping back in time while still feeling totally pampered. All this costs $125 per person. Seriously, it's a steal for such an unforgettable experience. To book a tour with them email: tugah@gmail.com or send a text to +1 867 446 9662. Trust me, you won't regret it!
XC SKIING:
With seven months of snow, Yellowknife is heaven for cross-country skiers. Head to Overlander Sports and rent a pair of cross-country skis. You can find groomed trails along the edges of frozen Frame Lake and Back Bay, and plenty of freshly-groomed and marked routes at the Yellowknife Ski Club.
SNOWSHOEING
Head to frozen Back Bay Falls. In a secret valley just across Back Bay from Yellowknife's Old Town, a frozen waterfall forms each winter. Mineral-rich waters seep down the steep, dark cliffs of Jackfish Draw, forming giant icicles and an ice caves. We parked at Yellowknife Ski Club Nordic Centre and hiked down from there, just be careful not to step on the XC ski tracks. The hike only took like 15-20 minutes.
check out the snowcastle
Each year in March an epic winter wonderland is created on Yellowknife Bay where the Snowking and his tundra toughened helpers raise up one of Yellowknife and the NWT’s proudest monuments…the Snowcastle. Erected and built out of the frozen waters and white powder snow of Great Slave Lake, the Snowcastle becomes a month-long entertainment for young and old. So if you visiting in March definitely make sure you check it out. We went at the end of February and it was about finished. You can find a list of other events and festivals for each month here.
FREE ACTIVITIES
If you are on a budget but still looking to make the most of your time in Yellowknife without breaking the bank there are also several attractions and activities you can do that are completely free. Check out our Free things to do in Yellowknife guide here.
Where to Eat?
BREAKFAST
Birchwood Coffee Kǫ̀ - Fuel up for the day’s adventures with a stop at Birchwood Coffee Ko. This cute family run cafe serving fresh bannock & egger breakfast sandwiches, homemade cookies and a variety of caffeinated beverages making it a perfect spot to grab breakfast in Downtont Yellowknife.
LUNCH
Bullock's Bistro - You can’t visit Yellowknife without trying the famous Bullock’s Bistro fish and chips. This iconic Yellowknife restaurant that has been serving local wild caught fish from Great Slave Lake for 30 years. Located in a historic Yellowknife log building their food is fresh cooked from scratch in front of you. If you get lucky they might have Arctic Char on their daily special - be sure to order it deep fried or pan fried. All their delicious bread and sauces are made in-house. The walls are decorated with notes of thousands of people visiting from all around the world, make sure to ask for a sharpie to write your own name down!
Sundog Trading Post - Sweet, cozy little coffee shop just off the lake - great spot for lunch. We tried the mushroom panini and the yummy "Moqueca" soup which is like a fish stew.
DINNER
NWT Brewing Company/The Woodyard Brewhouse & Eatery - Bustling local hotspot loved by many, offering an array of craft beers on tap and fixed flight options. Dive into classic pub fare like burgers and wings, or try unique specialties like the elk hoagie and trout. The lively atmosphere and friendly staff make for a memorable dining experience. Definitely try their Mac and Cheese!
Coyote’s Family Steakhouse - Relaxed stop with a pool table offering hearty local fare & pub grub serving fresh local seafood, northern game and Alberta beef.
A Taste of Saigon - A Local Favourite Vietnamese restaurant. What could be better than a steaming bowl of Phở to warm up a chilly winter day?
What to Wear?
To make a winter trip to Yellowknife enjoyable you will want to make sure you are dressed for the weather. Temperatures in Yellowknife in the winter can dip down to -40°C/-40F or even lower, Don’t let the numbers intimidate you though! Since it’s a dry cold, if you dress properly, you will be quite comfortable. Bring all of the outdoor gear you’d expect to need to stay warm in Northern Canada.
Dress in layers
Your base layer should be skin-tight or close to it so that moisture doesn’t get trapped right against your body. Merino-wool is often hailed as the best material for this, but other synthetic fabrics also work. Avoid cotton.
Your middle layers, note that you can have multiple middle layers, should be something like a long sleeve shirt, flannel shirt and/or a fleece sweater like Patagonia Light Weight Synchilla Snap-T Pullover.
Your outer layer a heavy, insulated, windproof thigh-lenght parka, preferably natural down filled, with a hood. I’ve had my MEC Guides Down Parka for years and I brought it on this trip and it kept me warm and cozy.
Insulated snow pants, any will work but I like The North Face Freedom Insulated Pants.
Let’s not forget your fingers and toes. You’ll want a windproof hat, or toque, scarf/neck warmer/balaclava, and mitts, not gloves, or at least small gloves with larger mitts over them and good Smartwool Merino Wool Socks. Your boots should have good insulation. I wore Sorel Women’s TIVOLI™ IV Parc Boots around town and they were warm and comfortable and had an amazing grip. Fubuki Niseko 2.0 Winter Boots - These are going to especially be handy since you’ll probably walk though deep snow at some point on your trip.
What if you live somewhere warm and don’t own any winter gear and don’t want to buy it? There are places in Yellowknife that rent winter clothing.
What else should you pack?
Camera – This is a must for me for any trip but if you want to take good photos of the Aurora you will need a camera that you can manually control the ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed.
Extra Camera Batteries – Your camera will be outside as much as you will be, you will need extra batteries due to cold temperatures, and a power bank for your phone.
Wide-angle Lens – If you are wanting some spectacular photos of the Aurora Borealis, using a wide-angle lens is almost a must. It will help you capture the entire sky as it lights up.
Tripod – If you want to get stable photos of the Northern Lights a tripod is almost a must to get your camera still enough for longer exposures. Even if only take photos with your phone, not a camera a phone tripod like this one definitely helps.
Sunglasses – sunglasses might seem unnecessary at this time of year. However, when the sun is shining and reflecting off the white snow, it can be quite blinding. I prefer wearing ones with a plastic frame during the winter months because metal frames can sometimes feel uncomfortably cold.
Hand-warmers – Hand-warmers are a lifesaver in those moments when your fingers or toes just won’t work anymore. Check out Aurora Heat Hand/Foot warmers for a northern take on hand-warmers. These natural and reusable hand and foot warmers are made from 100% Wild Beaver Fur, making them a great sustainable alternative of the single use ones. They are Indigenous Women owned and ethically sourced. I have Raynaud’s disease on my fingers and these hand warmers kept my fingers nice and warm. I have the foot warmers and they work great also. Use my code “KATIA” to get 15% off.
Moisturizer – Yellowknife has a dry climate and your skin can dry out quickly. Pack yourself a good moisturizer of choice and a lip balm.
Snacks – Odd thing to pack, but if your flight is arriving or departing very late at night or early in the morning sometimes there is nowhere to eat. Simple snacks will help you get through those times. Or when you’re out exploring the wilderness. My fav go-to are GoMacro bars.
Flashlight or Headlamp – It is dark here, we have established that. A headlamp will be your best friend when trying to adjust your camera settings in the middle of the night.
Comfy clothing — for lounging at the hotel/B&B, and a pair of cozy completely optional.
Other tips and resources:
Stop at Yellowknife Visitor’s Centre located at: Centre Square Mall, 5014 – 50th Street to pick up a free parking pass for the duration of your stay and some complimentary souvenirs.
https://spectacularnwt.com/communities/north-slave/yellowknife/
I hope you enjoyed reading my Yellowknife Guide, and I’ve sparked your interest in exploring the wonders of Canada's Northwest Territories. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment below.